Afm

[Chaotic]

just a couple questions...

1. i was telling a guy at work how the cover to my AFM is just silconed on and how i was wondering why the previous owner had opened it up, and he said they probally just mod'd the AFM... anyone know what this actual mod is or have any ideas?

2. if you relocate the AFM (NA engine) to run straight into the throttle body do you have to move the 3 idle control screw thing? and the other plug that sticks next to the idle control to after the AFM again?

i know i've asked before about the AFM relocation but haven't really got much of an answer (for NA engine) and the only directions i've found on the net or anything are for turbo engines... so i was wondering if anyone can just answer these quick questions for me.

[Garry]

hey dude

if you have a AFM and the car is fuel injected. You would need to relocate all the stuff after the AFM as well... thats if you want your car to run properly. otherwise your ECU will go into default and she might run rich... or the car will run shit


good luck

[chris2]

the reason people do this is to slightly move the wiper on the resistance strip cause it wears a tiny groove. aslo you tap two holes and have quick access to change spring tension,that is but for fuel curvevs flow rate

i also modded some of the reference resisters etched on the ceramic, this was to radically give more fuel later,i ground out the res. with a dremel and soldered 2 surface mount ones from a old phone ( measure first then drop by about 10 % wit replacements)
do the last 2 only + somme trial error in selection
this is for serious 15psi work and can be done for fj inj swap too(so low end isnt stooged)

remember the bypass port is only effective to 1500 rpm and closing it completely gives no damping or low speed serious bucking around
i got a microtech instead at the end!!!

[Chaotic]

Originally posted by chris2
the reason people do this is to slightly move the wiper on the resistance strip cause it wears a tiny groove. aslo you tap two holes and have quick access to change spring tension,that is but for fuel curvevs flow rate

i also modded some of the reference resisters etched on the ceramic, this was to radically give more fuel later,i ground out the res. with a dremel and soldered 2 surface mount ones from a old phone ( measure first then drop by about 10 % wit replacements)
do the last 2 only + somme trial error in selection
this is for serious 15psi work and can be done for fj inj swap too(so low end isnt stooged)

remember the bypass port is only effective to 1500 rpm and closing it completely gives no damping or low speed serious bucking around
i got a microtech instead at the end!!!

ok you lost me i didn't understand a thing...

[Nisman]

basically what chris was saying is, the reason someone has taken the cover off your afm is to have a fiddle.
basically you can alter the fuel delivery curves by doing so, there are two ways, change the spring tension, or by changing the internal resistors (as chris said) THis tricks the computer into thinking there is more air going through than there really is and so it puts more fuel into the engine.
this can be effective when running higher boost because it stops the motor leaning out, or if you put bigger injectors in you can stop it overfueling down low.
(hope that makes a bit more sence)

with the log tube, basically all the two sensor things do are control your idle. The little thing is a small stepper motor called an idle control valve or idle step motor.
if you dont move these with the inlet, it will cause the car to idle like shit. it will still run fine when you are going however. There is an article on n12turbo.com about how to put a variable resistor on that will help the car idle, although aimed at the turbo model, it will do exactly the same for your car.

[Chaotic]

ok yeh that makes sense now. thanks for clearing that up.