Serious acceleration problem

[NX EXA]

Well, I thought I have solved the problem when I changed the fuel filtre but now it seems to be getting worse. I know my car sits longer that anyone elses but I do drive it at least once a week. When I do drive it, after start-up I let it sit for a while to get warm. When the car starts moving the idle lowers and it hesitates alot. There have been a few times where the car literally didn't want to go. It's almost like the exhaust isn't leaving or no air is getting in. Sometimes I can get it going when I rev it up high and then release the clutch but it sometimes chokes back down. I really don't know what to do. I have already changed 2 fuel injectors and the fuel filtre. Anyone have any suggestions? I want to get it idling right so I can drive it more than once a week. :help:

[Lifeman]

Sounds like a Mass air flow sensor... you have a e16 right?

Have you checked the ECU for codes?

[TTriX]

possibly something in the intake area...try checking the airflow meter plugs for corrosion or leaks with the some vacume lines.
easiest way to find a vacume leak is with a propane torch(unlit)...take the mini torch(unlit!!!) so the propane is leaking out and move it around the lines...if the idle goes up that means that you are sucking air in that area.
which would affect take off.
but i would be leaning more towards the airflow meter.
hope that helps.
T

[Blood]

if the revs die down .. and u havent moved your foot ( and dont use the clutch)
try your TPS might need adjustment.. or replacement..
that helped on my car !

[Garry]

hey dude

It sounds like my problem.... But mine's fairly intermittent.... I'd check the ignition timing. But if that seems to be alright... then i'd check all the basics... eg. Spark plugs, coil packs/transistor, air filter etc...

Also check the water temp sensor, it could be giving a false reading which could be dumping fuel into the chamber.

Good luck

[boostinhard]

Hey,
I would definately be looking ignition way... If it feels like it has no torque what so ever and is very slow to rev, your timming could be WAY out! Do hte e16's run a CAS?
Sam

[GTS20tExa]

His motor is a CA18DE :D

[boostinhard]

Hey,
well I'd almost bet a large sum of money on the CAS or even the timming belt being out...
Sam

[bogan]

i was thinking either CAS or TPS myself..... they could both need adjusting....

[bogan]

woops.. dogey ass double post...
:trippa: :trippa:

[DEVILsEXA]

Dude...

It's tha EXACT same problem as me! I'm working on her today trying to get it right!

Here's what u can do to see if its tha TPS (what i've done)
If u need help with any of this just PM or email me!

Adjust ur TPS counter clockwise, i'm guessing urs will be set in tha middle where they should be!
so move it say 50% from where it is now counter clockwise, this should slove your throttle problem and still be ok... tha reason i dont say move it as far as u can counter clockwise is because when u do this tha ECU dont like it and u'll find that when ur driving and take ya foot off tha gas it'll feel like ur braking and just touch tha gas again and u'll jurk forward (you could try this to see what i mean) it feels like u've got shit loads of HP from nowhere but as soon as u take ur foot off ur head hits tha dash! lol

You could eitha put up with one of tha problems ir get a new TPS but there is a sweet spot u'll just ave to play around!

Are you also having trouble starting her up? Like she'll fire up but wont make it to 1000RPM and die? If you are i'd like to hear about your fix if u figure it out b4 me!

Craig.

[Garry]

hey dudes

The TPS is just a switch to let the ECU know that you've decided to accelerate.... The TPS doesn't show a variable reading as you press the throttle... It has a open circuit and a closed circuit. ie On/off

If you decide to adjust the TPS, it would be in your best interest to adjust it with a multimeter... I can't remember the pin numbers... But you simply look for a open and closed circuit. And adjust as a open circuit when you open the throttle... But you adjust it as closest as you can.

With the original problem, disconnect the Air flow meter and see if it makes a difference... without the AFM the ECU will not allow you to rev past 2000rpm... Just see if it makles a difference.

good luck and keep us up to date.... i like this quizz

[NX EXA]

The car starts up fine and idles fine. I only have the problem under acceleration. I know for a fact the AFM is plugged up because it will rev past 2000 rpms. It does't really have a problem reving at stand still....only when the car is moving. After the car has been warm for a while the car accelerates fine I will take a look at the vacuum lines and for any corrosion on the AFM. I may just need a new air filtre. The one I have in there is fairly old and dirty.

[sexa]

yeah i think we have the same problem, no power low down and sometimes can hardly move, ive had my coils tested theyre fine, sparkplugs are fine, injectors are fine and timing is fine, so you can count those things out as being your problem, i think its gotta be something simple, cause if the power does kick in eventually then in low revs there must just be something holding it back from firing immediatly, i think it may have something to do with the exhaust cause it happened to me the day after i got a new muffler with a 5inch tip on it, hope it helps

[matara]

Do a diagnostic check on your ECU. Check for Code 34 in mode 3. I had the same problem sa you, and it was down to a faulty detonation/knock sensor that causes the ECU to retard the timing. Advancing the timing using the crank angle sensor (CAS) will cure the problem temporarily.

Cheers

Steve