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angel
19th April 2003, 04:12 PM
Hi all, looking around for a new box for my 85 EXA Turbo... can anyone help me out?

Also just curious whether the Gearbox's on the N12 models all have the same ratios or whether there is a seperate gearbox (or ratios) for Turbo vs. non-Turbo?

Also if anyone has swapped a box, what am I in for? I have pretty good access to tools and possibly a hoist, but if anyone can tell me possible hours and difficulty would be much appreciated!!

Thanks for the :help:

kekilepep
20th April 2003, 12:29 AM
n12 turbo vs n12 non-turbo.

It fits but the ratios are diff.. Probably not wise to put it in, more then likely it would blow

I need a rebuilt one too, Pulsar Parts have them instock, $750 + changeover and i think thats fitted with box oil etc
give them a call

Nisman
20th April 2003, 01:51 AM
n12 non turbo box is NOT a direct swap, you have to change flywheel, clutch, and then starter.

they are weak and wont last long.

swap is easy as, drain box oil, jack up the front of the car and take off the wheel. belt the ball joint out and the tie rod out, then yank the drive shafts out of the box.
take off the starter, undo all the gear box bolts, the hardest and worst one is the one that goes into the rear engine mount, its a prick.
change the box and do the reverse, its a fair bit of stuffing around if you dont know what you are doing, but its pretty straight forward, everthing comes in and out, just make sure the drive shafts pop in correctly, make sure the little round circlip things on the end of the spline are not bentor it wont go in correctly.

Garry
20th April 2003, 05:03 AM
hey nisman
I don't know how you do your gearboxes... buti've never taken out the ball joint/tie rod end out...

i bascally jackthe car up remove the CV's, take out the starter and unbolt the box... I've always unbolted the struts fromt the brakes cos it gives extra movement for the driveshafts.... If you split the ball joint there's a good chance you screw it.

Also a easier way to put the gearbox is to jack the engine up so engine sits straight. So all the mounting holes are in place. Then all you do is lift and slide the box on. Even the engine mount holes line up...

Also another thing is for all you n12 fanatics.... i read the service manual for the N12 and the N13... the gearbox has the same numbers... although they are different boxes... the service manual has the same part numbers.... go figure

Nisman
20th April 2003, 01:33 PM
I don't know how you do your gearboxes...

as a matter of fact, this was the way i was tought to do them when i worked as a mechanic for NISSAN.... need i say more.
my dad is also a mechanic, and does it exactly the same way.


I've always unbolted the struts fromt the brakes cos it gives extra movement for the driveshafts

obviously everyone does things different (so there was really no reason for the smart ass remark :thumbsdow )
but if you think about it, if you remove the strut you can only move the cv as far as the brake assembly will swing on the lower control arm, if you belt the ball joint out and tie rod out, you can swing the whole brake assembly up to a foot out of the car, much easier when you have to pull the cv OUT of the box, not just twist it down.


Also a easier way to put the gearbox is to jack the engine up so engine sits straight. So all the mounting holes are in place. Then all you do is lift and slide the box on. Even the engine mount holes line up...

this reminded me, you should have the motor jacked up so u take the weight off the mount that goes to the box, and you can take the mount off, so it should be up still when you put the box on.


If you split the ball joint there's a good chance you screw it.
i have removed ball joints litterally hundreds of times, and i can say now, that i have never wrecked a ball joint or tie rod end for that matter, as long as you do it correctly (by hitting the metal bit that surrounds the shaft on the brake hub (sorry i know the bit i mean, its hard to describe) it will pop the ball joint out in the manner it was designed to do (it is a wedge shape and when impacted forces the shaft out) ball joint splitters are shit and in my opinion shouldnt be used.

as i said before everyone does things different, this is how i was taught to do it, and i have had two pulsars, i had 2 motors, and 3 different clutches in my old one, and im on to motor 3 and clutch 3 on this one (dont bother with jap import motors or stock clutches, they are a waste of time)

and on the gearbox topic, i am under the impression that it is possible to change some of the internals of the n13 box and put them into the n12 casing.

Paul

KAMELEON
23rd April 2003, 08:09 PM
im a bmw technician and i work with two ex nissan master technicians
basically everything u said nisman i agreed with
never take a strut out of a car for a gearboix and always take one drivehsaft out only no need to twist or bend
3 hour job in and out if not quicker
also gearbox rebuild doing it ureself is a piece of piss when u have the workshop manual on hand

chris2
1st May 2003, 10:17 AM
the garry way is easier cause you dont upset wheel alignment.....and the 2 bolts fall off vs belting ball/tierod joints