Ok everyone i think i have the EXA solution!

[DEVILsEXA]

So, one day she was hard to get going! When she did start up and i tried to 'move off' the revs lowered and she nearly stalled!
But when i did get going i didnt have any power below 300RPM

Well these were my solutions to the problems! Now i'm not saying that they will solve the same problem on everyones cars!

1st Was the starting problem! Now if u dont have a 'workshop manual' there is one online check the N13 Technical section for links to it (it is for CA16 & 18's) on page 135 there is a diag of the engine! Find the ARV (air regulator valve) now go to ur car and unplug it! U should find that tha car cranks up but then slowly dies off! This is kinda simulating what is happening when u try to start up "cold"! anyway while the connector plug is off check tha pins, as mine were fairly corroded so i cleaned em up with a flat blade screw driver~! This may not be tha case for all of you, your ARV may be gone completely!

Now that solved the dieing off problem but i still had the intial start and running rough!

I found about 6 vacuum lines unplugged on the passenger side of the engine bay! So while tha engine was running i could hear the 'sucking' noise which helped me find each vac line connector! Connecting each hose to tha closest connector when i finally got to tha last one and pushed it on the connector the engine INSTANTLY started running sooooooo smooth! (Keep in mind i had also set my timing, i did this with a timing gun)

Also i had a multi meter so i set the TPS to where it should be!

WOW that sloved everything! EXCEPT for my low power although it had emproved greatly (now i only didnt have power below 2000 RPM) So i changed tha plugs THATS IT! wooohooo party time everyone all my problems are now fixed!


So ppl i hope this helps atleast one of you out there suffering for the same problems i had!

Regards Craig.

PS saved maself nearly $300 by not taking it to tha mech!

[DEVILsEXA]

I'm still going to change my fuel filter and check my fuel lines~!

BTW can you maybe make this sticky???

[Master Yoda]

glad to here you got everything sorted out cheaply

-Mike

[skozzy]

Try also resetting your computer (mode 3 then mode 4 or unplug the battery then reconnect it) and go for a run and re-check the computer as well, then follow it up with a real time diag from the computer (mode 5).

These are the few little things I did with my car to double check things.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/89exa/icon_tag.jpg

[DEVILsEXA]

Yeh cheers Skozzy! OH and dont forget mode two for TPS double check after setting it with a multi meter!!! as mine still needed slight adjustment to get it perfect!!! This will also help with a number of things!

Ecu Diag help (http://www.users.bigpond.com/webspace/180sx/ca18eccs.htm)

Craig.

[skozzy]

I was going to mention that, but I see that you said you set it correctly.

Also use mode 1 for checking your mixture after repositioning the tps and fixing the air sensor. from memory it's 9 flashes of the green led with a 10 second period.. have to double check the book on that one.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/89exa/icon_tag.jpg

[biga]

hey guys wre about is the "cold start air control valve"

[DEVILsEXA]

"Air Regulator Valve" like i sed buddy page 135 of tha workshop manual which in now online (check other thread for linkage)...

on the Drivers side of tha Intake...

It's got a hose from tha air hose round tha back of tha intake to tha ARV and it has two wires going to it!!! on a little white connector!!!

Craig.

[boostinhard]

Hey,
hehe - when are engineer's going to make better interfaces for ecu diagnostics??? This falshing LED stuff is crap!
Sam

[Matt]

Even if they forked out for a digit array, thats like 7 LEDs and then the numbers could be a number??!!

[Lonx]

Hey Sam, whats crap about the two LED diagnostic display? Its accurate, and fairly error-free as far as we can tell. If you ask me, another system which converts the error code into a nice 'your mother could understand this' message would have more potential problems! I think Nissan did good here :D

[Blood]

hi...
was talking to my mech friend today ....
he was saying that when u advance the timing too much ...
it makes it fire too late when it is cold..
this is possibly the reason too...

just letting u all know :)

[skozzy]

He must be confused, "advanced" means "before", "retarted" means "late", "pre-ignition" means the fuel/air has burned too early.

If the timming is advanced too much you will get a power range shift towards the high rpm scale, the low rpm side of the scale will be reduced of power as much as the high end rpm scale gets an increase of power.

A too hot chamber will pre-ignite the air/fuel and an too advanced timming will also pre-ignite the air/fuel. (you will hear the crackling sounds comming from the motor)

If the timming is too retarted the power range is shifted down the rpm scale, top end rpm power is lost as much as low end rpm is increased, there is no pre-ignition here but your engine temp will climb rather fast, and only when/if it gets too high you then get pre-ignition. A badly retarted timming will also increase the chance of reduced pressure in the ignition chamber which can draw in oil via the rings or the valve seals.

If the engine is hot or cold it mechanicly won't make the spark happen later, the only thing I can see that can do this is the ECU.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/pinball_player/89exa/icon_tag.jpg