• SR20DET Conversion by Fireballs

    SR20DET Conversion

    BY Fireballs (taken from our bulletin board)


    Since there has been so much interest in the sr20det conversion, I thought i would start a new topic just for information about it.
    Please post additional information / corrections as you find it.
    Here's my story..
    At first, all I did was put in the engine and hook up what i needed to get it running

    I used:

    * SR20DET from a Japanese SSS Bluebird Attessa 4wd $1500
    * Haltech e6k ecu with harness about $1700
    * Gearbox from a 98 SSS Pulsar (bought the engine, gearbox, and brakes from a burnt out sss pulsar $1200, but you probably get the gear box for $600 - $800)

    various parts from the n13 pulsar which i already had.


    engine will probably come with auto awd box which is quite useless

    ECU. if you want to make your own harness, i can now get another ecu trade for about $900
    if you can get the original computer, then great, i'm sure it will save a bit of money, but i couldn't get one.

    stock, the engine puts out about 156kw from memory, it was somewhere between 147(silvia) and 164(gtir), it runs about 7.5 psi boost stock.

    I've seen documentation on the sss bluebird which says you can safely boost to 14psi with the stock turbo, and with a 3" exhaust, it will put out about 206kw

    if you decide to go for the gtir engine, measure up the intake and make sure you have enough room to the firewall, mine is quite close to the water jacket now, the quad throttle bodies may be be a problem. And the engine is twice the price.

    gear box

    The gear box almost fits straight up to the engine, except they moved one bolt, you can either get a plate made up, or just leave the bolt out, I got the plate made up, but they didn't put it in last time i got the clutch changed, they reckon it made something not match up (I think they are dreaming) so I'm runing without that bolt, and it hasn't cracked anything yet.

    engine and gear box info:

    I'm guessing that the bolt was moved in the redisign of the sr20. The sss pulsar would have had the 2nd generation sr20 being a 98 model, but the motor I used was a 1st generation sr20. You can tell by the color of the rocker cover.
    RED rocker cover, 1st generation
    BLACK rocker cover, 2nd generation

    I've heard that the 2nd generation sr20's all have ball bearing turbo's, and are stronger than the first generation, I have 96 model 180sx which has a black sr20det, and I have also noticed that it reaches operating temperature much faster than the one in the exa.

    SO, if you manage to find an east west mounted sr20det with a black rocker cover, you will end up with a slightly better engine than mine, and you're gear box may have all its bolt holes match up.

    I'm also guessing that a gearbox from an earlier sss pulsar will fit my 1st generation engine. I could also be very wrong about that bolt, it may have been moved on the sr20's which were to have a 4wd box installed on them. If anyone finds out for sure, please post it.

    engine mounts

    The engine mounts are all in the same position, they just turned them around, so you have to do custom work.

    The mount on the firewall, is a half/half engine mount, i think it was from an n13 pulsar and the one on the engine.

    The gear box mount from the n13 pulsar fitted three out of 4 bolts, that one was easy

    The right side engine mount used the ring from the engine and a custom body mount chopped and welded from the original n13 pulsar mount.

    if you are wondering why i have lots of n13 pulsar stuff, instead of n13 exa stuff, its because i did this conversion on my pulsar, then rolled it, then transfered everything to the exa

    I had to do extra work to fit the conversion into the exa after i rolled the pulsar

    I had to use the clutch pedal and cable from the n13 pulsar (australian motor uses cable, sr20 uses cable, ca18 uses hydrolic). I prefer cable anyway, the exa one was leaking. I cut and welded the original pedal pad from the exa pedal so it was the right shape.

    drive shafts

    The did away with the two peice right hand side drive shaft setup, and used the drive shafts from the n13 pulsar, (exa probably the same if its single peice). They fit perfectly except you need to change the size of the right hand diff seal to the same size as the one on the left.

    The gear shift will hook straight up if you position the engine corectly.

    The left mount give you the forward/back, and up/down position, its only the rotational position to worry about, let the stationary gear shift member determine this and everything should be in correct position.

    I got rid of air con cos i never used it, if its hot enough, i always take the top off,
    this means less installation hassle too.


    Extra stuff to possibly do eventually:

    Use the brakes from the sss pulsar, they bolt straight on. And I recomend bendix ultimates. I have melted out the centres of my front wheels racing, and still i get no brake fade!

    If you have overheating problems (i only did when i started racing it) then you can get a tripple core radiator made up. (about $500)

    The engine comes with an intercooler top mounted that fits under the bonnet without any head room problems, either get a front mount one, or put in a bonnet scoop
    i got a massive from mount one. (about $800)

    I was told the fuel pump may be a problem, dont seem to have a problem at 19psi boost, and its running very rich too.

    You could get a Knock Link (made by link) to monitor the knock sensor on the motor, i bought one but never got around to hooking it up.

    Because I race, i also spent $5500 on pedder's extreme suspension kit. They also installed a rear sway bar which induces more oversteer, and helps front traction under power out of corners.

    I also used a front strut brace from n15 pulsar (after market one), and made a rear one.
    The bolt patern appears to be identical from n13 - n15 (maybe n12 too)


    Stuff I havent got around to doing yet:

    Bigger turbo. The s13 turbo bolts straight on. I'm hoping to go even bigger if i can, i may have to mount a fan in front of the intercooler / radiator and do away with the stock ones to going the room for a bigger one. The stock turbo says m25 on it, I'm guessing it is like a T25. It think the s13 turbo is a T28. I cant get the stock turbo to sustain more than 10psi at about 7500rpm, but it is extremely responsive, and at about 4500rpm it tops out at about 19psi. I'v been told the the s13 turbo can sustain 14psi to redline.

    Swirl pot. Around the track I'm having to start with over half a tank of fuel so that it doesn't run out of juice around corners. I'm going to install a swirl pot to remedy this, the only other option is to install baffles in the fuel tank. Not important for a street car.

    Q & A with Fireballs

    posted 25 September 2001 02:34 PM

    Some more info I just emailed:
    Q. I wanted to contact you on your swap, to see if you have any more specific notes on your
    motor mounts, I guess what I am getting at is, the actual mount location on the Exa is the same as
    the SR20DET, meaning I can use the centerlines of my existing mounts to figure location of the new mount?

    A. no, unfortunately they are all in the same place, the centres are probably in the same place, but they swapped the ring and pin around
    in other words, instead of the ring being on the car, its on the sr20.
    but the left mount i was able to bolt straight on from an n13 pulsar (3 out of 4 holes on the gear box were the same)
    the right mount, i used the ring on the sr20, and cut up others to make the car half, including the orgininal n13 pulsar mount.
    the rear mount. The rear mount was made from half the n13 pulsar mount, and half the sr20 mount. I dont have any pics, but i can take some if you end up needing me to.

    Q. Anyhow, if you have pictures of your mounts that you fabbed, or notes about what you made,
    that would cut down my fab time greatly.
    What Crossmember did you use?

    A. I bent and cut and welded the cross member to go through the engine in the right place

    Q. I'm looking at getting NX2000 spindles, and possibly the drive axles to use on the SR20DET,
    hopefully these will work. You said you used the N13 Pulsar spindles and drive axles?

    A. yes

    Q. Lastly, do you have the wiring information on the wire splices under the hood and to the dash?
    I have done a USDM 240SX S13 to SR20DET already, so I can figure out the wiring, but if you already have that
    information, I would appreciate it if I could get a copy.

    A. I used an after market computer, and the supplied wiring loom, unless you are planning on using the same computer, i cant help you much, i hooked into the original harness in a few places at the computer end (fuel pump, power, speedo, tacho), and another place on the fan relay
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