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  • How to replace valve stem seals

    Your normal tools, nothing exotic!
    New valve stem seals $20-$30 from Auto pro, Repco,
    Super Shit ect
    A 14-17mm open ender spanner
    A spare rocker rail so no matter if you damage it.
    Normal and needle nose pliers.
    Feeler guages to set valve clearance.
    A magnetic pen would be a good idea.
    And someone to keep you company.


    First, remove all things over the rocker cover,
    throtal cable, inlet plumbing, spark plugs + leads ect
    ect.

    Undo and remove the two 17mm nuts holding the rocker
    cover down, (its a good idea to put all the nuts and
    bolts you remove into a margarine container so you
    don't miss place them), carefully remove the rocker
    cover as so not to damage the two rubber bushes that
    reside under the 17mm nuts, also take care with the
    rubber rocker cover gasket.

    You should now be able to clearly see the rocker
    rail and rockers. There are 5 bolts which hold this
    down, 2 of which are the bolts which hold the rocker
    cover down. They should be 13mm jobs. Remove the two
    spider retainers on both outside bolts. Undo all
    5bolts in segments! Don't remove them completely one
    at a time, as you might bend the rocker rail, undo
    them in stages.

    Take note of which way the rail sits on the engine
    as it will need to go back on the same way.

    If you don't have a spare rail to use, carefully
    clean and remove all the rockers and spacers of the
    rail. (MAKE ABSOLUTE SURE YOU CAREFULLY PLACE THESE
    OUT SO THEY CAN BE PUT BACK ON THE EXACT SAME WAY THEY
    CAME OFF) You will need to clean the rail as well as
    the rockers, because the rockers won't easily slide
    over oil crud build up. Using some insulation tape,
    tape up the rail where the spanner will contact. Use
    as much as you need as a $2 roll of tape can prevent
    damage to a potentialy expensive engine part!

    Using a 19mm socket on the harmonic balancer (crank
    pully), turn the engine over till it's on TDC. With
    the engine on TDC you will be able to do cylinders 1
    and 4 both inlet and exhaust.

    It's a good idea to plug the oil drain holes in the
    head with a rag/s to prevent small bits falling into
    the sump!!


    Using two of the rail bolts, place the rail back
    where it normaly sits, (minus the rocker gear of
    cause), screw in the two bolts only 2 turns (choose
    the two nearest bolt holes, one either side of the
    spring), carfully slide the spanner under the rail and
    over one of the spring retainers. Screw down the
    bolts in turn by 2 - 3 turns at a time. The valve
    will slowly push down till either the retainer
    lostens against the valve colletts or the valve
    touches the piston. Keep screwing down the bolts till
    they are screwd all the way in.
    With a magnet or a pair of needle nose pliers, remove
    the colletts and place them in a safe place (pockets
    are good, just don't miss-place them). Now you can
    undo the bolts in the same fashion as you did them up.
    The free lenght of the spring will be longer now that
    it's not compressed so you may have a little tension
    left when the bolts are at the end of their threads.

    Remove the retainer and spring (there is also a
    hardend steel washer that sits under the spring, make
    doubly sure that this is in place before you reinstall
    the spring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), clean and put to one side.
    Again take note of which way the spring sits as it
    should go on one particular way. Using a flathead
    screw-driver, pry off the old valve stem seal, you may
    need to use a pair of pliers to remove it easily.

    Now with the new seal, lubricate it with new oil,
    push it over the top of the valve stem, and carefully
    tap it home with a small hammer using a 13mm or so
    socket that neatly fits over the top of the rubber
    ring (but doesn't touch the valve) which forms the top
    of the new seal. You can also use a 13mm ring spanner
    or similar to do the same thing, just tap the shaft of
    the spanner till the seal is pushed all the way down
    to the base of the valve stem.

    It all sounds quite complex as its hard to put into
    words, but is very easy once you have done one. =7]

    Make sure the washer is in place before you
    re-install the spring (the right way up =7] ), place
    the retainer over the valve, and compress the spring
    in the same way as the first time around. Carefully
    re-install the colletts, use a small screw driver to
    centre the valve shaft in the retainer to make it
    easier to push in the colletts. Once they are in
    place, undo the bolts and the valve spring should be
    back to origninal condition.

    Repeat for opposite valve on that cylinder, and
    opposite cylinder in the block. ie 1 and 4 2 and
    3.

    Once you have succesfuly done both valves on 1 and
    4, turn the engine over till #2 and #3 are on TDC or
    #1 is on BDC. You can check the height of the piston
    in #2 or #3 by using a torch and looking down the
    spark plug hole, turn engine over till piston is at
    its heighest point.

    Repeat valve spring process again.

    Once all vavles are done, its time to re-install all
    the rockers, spacers, and tension springs back onto
    the rail. Re-install rail, and check and set valve
    clearance. 11thou or .28mm note: this is the hot
    clearance and will need to be re-checked when engine
    is at operating temp!
    This article was originally published in forum thread: How to replace valve stem seals started by mattybaby View original post