• SR20DE to SR20DET article

    big thanks to PGA for this article

    Firstly the DET was removed from the front cut. Everything was unbolted, the engine was chained up and pulled out of the top of the cut using an electric fork lift, you have NO idea how handy this fork lift was! amazing. We used it for engine moving, pulling, jacking up the whole front end of the car, moving the front cut around, skating on, riding, holding our beers, and so on.

    Clean your DET with copious amounts of degreaser. Trust me, your gonna get dirty whilst doing this swap you might as well only get half as dirty as you should. Clean it, scrub it. You know you want to anyway, coz its your new baby. Take several pictures of your new clean baby, including pictures of you humping it, licking it, riding it, whatever suits you, I chose humping and riding.

    The DET automatic Bluebird gearbox weighs a SHIT LOAD. I mean seriously, you cant lift this thing up, even with two people it would be hard to lift. I swear it must weight about as much as the engine itself! damn. Get your mates to help you kick the shit out of... I mean... slide this across the workshop floor to move it. Or tow it with your multipurpose electric forklift.

    Before starting any of this work, you will require the following things:

    * Beer (lots), you think better when drinking, your more relaxed and you don't swear as much at things
    * Socket set (any decent socket set) I choose a Stanley 1/2" drive kit with various extension bars and so on.
    * A really large BAR (the gentle persuader) This thing will assist your socket set and provide you with the power of the darkside
    * Some huge ring/open end spanners. I used these to get the drive shafts out of the knuckles (large nut) This required some hardcore "jumping on the spanner" action to remove them
    * A big hammer
    * An oxy torch (optional)
    * Lecky fork lift (optional)
    * Various pliers, screwdrivers, etc.
    * Air compressor and air ratchet (not a rattle gun) It's like a socket set kit, but AIR, very very useful (optional)
    * Crowbar, for stubborn items that wont budge

    Really you don't need many tools. Mainly just a good socket set and some decent screwdrivers. (and beer)

    You will require the following parts, perhaps more, perhaps less:

    * New clutch kit (chunky, Adelaide Clutch 4-puck ceramic button)
    * Fluids (this means, engine oil, tranny oil, power steering fluid, oil filter, distilled water, Nissan coolant)
    * New air filter (if you keep stock air box) I used an HKS powerflow pod kit, nice.
    * NGK Platinum spark plugs
    * Some hardcore clamps for your I/C pipes (I used some really awesome heavy duty items)
    * New CV boot's (I replaced the drivers side CV boot, as I know the passenger side was done not long ago. It didn't need changing but it was probably almost due, when these things split you get a damn awful mess, just do it)
    * Some electrical wire for some wire extending

    These things need modifying, adding, swapping, removing when doing the DET swap into your N14.

    * Use DET ECU
    * Use DE Wiring loom (engine harness, EFI harness, and main ECCS harness) *note, put engines side by side, remove DE harness completely, then apply to DET plug by plug (if your concerned about getting something wrong) but really, all the plugs are different, you cant go wrong here. The EGR connector on the DE loom is unused, let it hang down. DET's don't have EGR
    * Use DE Tranny (two bolts will no longer line up)
    * Use DE Flywheel and a new 4-puck ceramic button clutch
    * Use DE Alternator and Starter Motor (as you know they are good)
    * Use DET water pump, power steering pump, etc unless you feel you need to change them.
    * Use DE Aircon and aircon bracket (note, you can keep all the aircon in the car whilst doing the swap, unbolt it from he DE, then unbolt the pipe clamps that hold the pipes on the body of the car, so you can move the compressor downwards out the bottom of the engine bay. It can hang there (cable tie it) whilst you remove the DE)
    * Use DE Engine Mounts (I recall an issue with the front mount, unsure, don't remember)
    * Use DE TPS (throttle position sensor) - Unscrew this little black device from your DE throttle (two adjustable little screws, try to take note of the TPS's position on the throttle and when screwing it down onto the DET throttle, try get it in a simular position. Mine isn't perfect, and I feel its causing some of my idle problems, possibly, never mind its not critical)
    * O2 Sensor (on dump pipe) wiring will need extending
    * Only two bolts out of three on the drivers side half-shaft bracket will bolt to the block, this will be fine. Do not over tighten these, you could snap them off.
    * The air/idle control valve under the intake manifold wont reach the wiring loom (loom doesn't reach) you need to either extend the looms wires, or do what I did. unbolt the air/idle unit, flip it around backwards, bolt it back on, then pull the pipes off it, and re-install pipes in a different configuration. I had to use a spare long length of pipe for this to work.
    * The cross member under the engine needs to be modified in order for the DET to not hit on it. The DET's upper sump will touch or possibly JUST clear the cross member. Mark where it needs to be modified with a texter (about 5 inches across). Get your trusty oxy torch, heat up the cross member and pad on top, when red hot, smash it in/down with a large hammer. Dent the sucker in. Best to heat up and dent in, than to chop sections out. This way we keep the strength in the cross member. I did all this marking and checking for clearance whilst the DET was hoisted up, so I could stick the cross member back on the engine to check for clearance.
    * The DET lower SUMP. Inspect this closely. Its the black pan on the very bottom of your engine. Please note, if this is dented in, even a tiny bit (the slightest concave) then remove it, and knock it out. The biggest cause of engine failure for the SR20's is a dented oil pan. A dent will cause the oil pickup to not be able to pick up oil, causing the bottom end to fail, you will spin big end bearings and be very sad. I had a very tiny concave, so I removed it to be safe, even though it would have been ok. I ripped it off with a stanley knife and large screwdriver. I then knocked it out with a big hammer, and resealed with some "threebond" seal. Threebond is gods choice of sealant, get this. Use this. I also used it to re-seal the DET thermostat housing.
    * I think there is a solenoid that comes with the DET for the charcoal canister. I ditched this. I blocked off one of the charcoal canister's hoses too. I'll have to have a closer look at this. I wouldn't mind pissing the canister off all together.
    * Use DE temp gauge sender unit and possibly the temp sensor for ECU sender. I only changed the gauge sender, one wire, black housing, its next to the water temp sensor which is red housing two wires. Just above oil filter, under intake. Swap this over or your gauge will read way too hot for what's really going on.
    * I removed the drivers side radiator fan, as my mate told me that it wont fit in there with the turbo, etc in the way. I have however seen other N14's around with both fans still in. My mate reckons you need to modify the cowling for the fan to fit, I'm not sure. Mine is cracked, due to the DE hitting it on the way down and breaking it so I don't know, I will organise some new Davis Craig fans in the future anyway, more flow, more space.
    * The top mount on the DET will knock on the back ribbing of the bonnet. The flat I/C pipe on the valve cover will also scrub on your bonnet's sound deadening and cause an ugly scratch mark on your pipe. I've raised the back of my bonnet using some spacer nuts and longer bolts, I've also removed the rubber strip along the back edge of the bonnet to allow some of the heat to escape out of my engine bay whilst I'm running this top mount with no venting. I will probably be doing a custom bonnet with custom scoop. I feel front mounts are good for big boost, but for a fairly stock configuration and no turbo swap, the top mount is better. (if vented) Much better throttle response due to short pipe work, etc.
    * Clutches, I used a 4-puck Ceramic button clutch and a wired and weighted 750kg pressure plate. I purchased a KIT from Adelaide Clutch for $544. Ring them, and tell them what your doing. Get this clutch it's awesome. It can be a bit clunky in slow city traffic and when parking and launching, but you get used to it, and its damn tough!
    * Fluids. I chose Redline Mt90 Gear oil for my tranny. I filled the engine with Nissan special blend 7.5W30 to run the engine in. I was supposed to drain this after a few weeks, but I'm still running it after 4 months, definitely due for a drain and swap. I'll be most likely running a 10W60 Castrol racing oil or a Redline 10W40 or 30. Unsure as yet.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Steve (SickNX) SR20DE to SR20DET article started by Howie View original post
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