PLEASE REMEMBER: when performing this repair you should keep a fire extiguisher handy AND DO NOT SMOKE (you shouldn't anyway coz it's very bad for you).
1st of all you will need to remove the filler cap to let the excess presure and fumes out of the tank.
You can replace it once released...
Now you will need to fold down the back seat and pull away the carpet and sound mat, At this stage u will see tha top of ur tank and a cover. Unplug all conectors and remove the cover.
Now Below this is a plate with screws holding it down... with this is dirty or has even a spec of dust on it clean it well and truely! Now remove the screws and very GENTLY start pulling the plate upwards, althought it maybe a wee bit stiff so try to rotate round and wiggle side to side but please be very careful.
"The bottom end plate is held on with a retaining wire which can be bent and the end plate, wire, float and tube will fall back into the tank. Then you're screwed. Take your time and get it out in one piece"
Disassembly and cleaning. Holding the unit up side down remove the pin from the end and carefully remove the end cap and tube. You MUST note the orientation of the float on a piece of paper or in your mind before sliding it off. If you don't you'll have a 25% chance of putting it on right (2 180° increments times 2 planes of rotation). The heart of the sending unit is a ceramic coated steel bar element with "printed on" carbon resistors and "lands". DO NOT bend this under any circumstance! If you do you will crack the ceramic and open the circuits. It is pretty rugged so you would almost have to do so intentionally. Get some Acetone, Tri-chlor, MEK or any strong industrial solvent (hardware store should have it). Scrub the element with a paper towel and solvent several times until no more yellow/brown varnish comes off on the towel. You can also polish the long "lands" on the element with a Pink Devil drafting eraser or a pencil eraser. Inspect the inside the float for bent or missing leaf contacts. Clean the tips of the contacts CAREFULLY with a cotton swab soaked in solvent. Don't bend them.
OK there is some more test which you can do which involves an OHM Meter so if you would like to know about doing this please say so and i'll post it here also!
Reassembly and reinstallation. Holding the unit up-side-down slide the float back on while observing the correct orientation. Slip the tube and the end plate on. Insert the pin under the "hook" in the end. Before reinserting into the fuel tank be sure the rubber "O" ring seal is in place and undamaged. This is important as the tank pressurizes during operation venting fumes and moisture could seep in during periods of inoperation. Carefully negotiate the sending unit into the fuel tank, fasten and reconnect the cable. Watch your fuel gage over the next few days and see what it does. It may not be perfect but if it is working right it will be reasonably accurate and you will always know when your tank is full and when it is empty
OK Hope this helps people,
Note: I must warn you that this is intended as a guide ONLY and is NOT 100% acriate, if you are unsure about doing it DONT DO IT... but keep in mind the worst thing you can do is end up buying a new one which is what you should be doing anyway, but for some of us fixing the one we've got is good enough
*** Questions ? - For any further questions about this topic, or any further details that you need, please feel free to post in THIS THREAD