• Guide to removing an Exa motor

    Seeing as i have had a few PMs directed at me, been asked questions on MSN, and there are a few threads floating around, i thought i might as well post up a little guide on how to remove the CA18DE/CA16DE from the Exa. Because this is off the top of my head, i have most probably forgotten things, so i will revise as i go along, and if anyone has revisions or additions, post them here!

    PLEASE NOTE: this is not recommended doin it by yourself, always have a second person there for safety

    Nearside = passenger side of car (AUST)
    Offside = driverside of car (AUST)

    remove engine loom
    basically, remove all the plugs you see attached to the engine. there are a few around the back, underneath, and to the sides of the motor too. remove throttle cable too. dont forget to mark where they came from (good idea is to put masking tape around the loom plugs and mark them accordingly (AFM, INJECTOR 1,2,3,4, CAS, etc)

    remove intake pipe -
    remove pipe from throttle body, airflow meter, etc to airbox. 2x14mm bolts could be holding the hard plastic intake pipe on. most have been removed from what i have seen... Airbox doesnt need to be removed.

    drain fluids:
    engine oil - sump plug
    gearbox oil - drainplug at base of gearbox
    power steer - power steer rack line, or let it go everywhere later on
    coolant - drainplug at nearside base of radiator (or you can drain it when you undo the top and bottom hoses)

    remove vacuum system,
    no vac lines can be attached to the motor to get it to come out. - includes brake booster also mark where you unplug the vacuum lines from,to help with reinstallation

    disconnect p/s hoses
    either from the pump itself (not recommended) or the banjo bolt at the far rear offside corner of the engine bay, and the power steer reservoir.banjo bolt is a 17mm to memory. reservoir line is held on by a hoseclamp

    disconnect cooling system
    remove top and bottom radiator hoses, and the heater hoses.
    raise vehicle
    loosen wheel nuts slightly whilst wheels still on the ground, raise vehicle, support on jackstands, and remove the wheels completely.

    disconnect ac compressor from motor -
    NOTE - cable tie out of the way
    NOTE - do not disconnect AC lines without prior evacuation of the gasses. they are extremely dangerous.
    Be careful when disconnecting the AC compressor and avoid damaging of the metal lines. - can be cable tied to the radiator support to stop movement and pissing you off.
    adjuster for belt needs to be loosened and removed (12mm or 14mm bolt at base of AC compressor on lower bracket)

    remove alternator -
    12mm adjuster loosens belt - remove belt, 2x14mm bolts hold alternator onto bracket. 14mm bolt holds adjuster bracket onto the head.

    remove exhaust -
    Remove EGR pipe/EGR unit - 12mm bolts hold EGR assembly on? 19mm screw/nut holds EGR pipe onto manifold. 8x14mm nuts hold exhaust onto the head - may also have spacers/washers under the nut (if stock, should) remove all nuts. Remove 2x17mm bolts from catalytic converter and drop exhaust down to the ground. remove from under car.

    Remove brake discs & calipers -
    (dont need to disconnect brake lines)
    2x17mm bolts can be found on the back of the caliper mounting bracket. undo these, and slide the caliper & bracket off the disc. slide the disc off the hub after removing caliper.
    NOTE - advoid stressing brakelines by having the caliper hanging. brake lines can be very fragile, and needless to say, are extremely fucking important! cableties or tie-wire/welding wire can come in handy to keep the calipers suspended.

    remove driveshafts
    remove split pin from each driveshaft, remove castle nut/washer - undo driveshaft nuts (32mm) (loosen this when full weight is on the wheels so the disc wont spin freely) remove 3x12mm bolts on offside driveshaft bracket (on the inner CV joint) - undo tie-rod ends (17mm nuts) and remove them. hammer persuasion should be needed to remove tierods. hit the hub just below the tierod, and DO NOT hit the thread of the tierod. Remove CV joints by either pulling out of the gearbox, or use persuasion with a large screwdriver, or tyre iron.

    remove gearstick linkages
    14mm and/or 12mm nuts/bolts should be holding the gearstick linkages on. there are 2 linkages to remove. one is connected to the rear engine mount, the other to the gearbox itself. keep these as far back from the motor as possible once undone.

    remove crossmember
    17mm bolts from rear of crossmember, and then the 17mm bolts from the front of crossmember. Drop to the ground, and remove from under car.

    remove front and rear stabiliser mounts -
    14mm nuts holding the stabilisers on front and rear. Front one is easily accessible. rear one is connected to rear engine mount.

    remove front shocks
    3x12mm nuts hold strut into the strut tower at the top. 2x 17mm bolts & nuts hold strut to lower control arm. remove from both sides.



    17mm bolt and nut hold mount rubber into chassis. remove. - Be extremely careful! Engine may want to tilt backwards or forwards when mount undone! I believe i roped the motor from around the back of the intake manifold to the radiator support.

    place a jack under the front of the motor near or on the front stabiliser mount bracket. this will hold the motor up at the front when other mounts are undone. If you wish to pull the motor out on a trolley, place the trolley under the motor now.

    lower car down to the ground until lower control arms are resting on ground. The jack should be supporting the motor at the front. The rope from undoing the rear engine mount should still be holding the motor forward. The motor should either be on the ground, or on the trolley by now too. undo the offside engine mount, and the triangular bracket that goes from the mount to the block. the motor should now be on a bit of a lean towards the offside of the engine bay. undo the nearside gearbox mount. The motor should now be on the trolley or ground. jack up the car as high as you can, and slide the motor out from underneath.


    connect the engine hoist to the lift points on the motor. you can chain up the offside mount bracket if needed too. Make sure the hoist is already slightly lifting the motor, or has a bit of load on it. get underneatht the car and undo the rear engine mount. Next undo the offside engine mount, followed by the nearside mount. lower the motor to the ground, disconnect the engine hoist, lift up the car as high as you can with jacks (engine hoist will damage any area you rope it around on the front of the vehicle.. If vehicle is being scrapped, this is easier) and slide the motor out.

    BE AWARE THIS IS ONLY OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD, SO DONT TAKE IT FOR GOSPEL! BOLT/NUT SIZES COULD BE DIFFERENT, AND THERE MAY BE THINGS I HAVE FORGOTTEN! It has been a while since i had an exa motor in my car, as i am running a Silvia motor, and it has been about a year since i pulled my motor out and took note of everything i undid! Most of it is pretty sraight forward!

    If there are things i have forgotten, please add to the bottom of this thread, and hopefully ill update them!

    Use this only as a guide, and remember, that this is to get the motor out by lowering it to the ground, not by pulling it out above the engine bay!


    This article was originally published in forum thread: Statiks Guide to removing an Exa motor started by StaTiK View original post
    Comments 1 Comment
    1. robbo69's Avatar
      robbo69 -
      thanks for taking the time. a really use full piece of information.
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