i got the parts from australian cv and power steering exchange in slacks creek...
you can get them from anlmost any power steering remanufacturer... (they will be very hesitant to sell them to you.)
i know of tbs in capalaba (i used to work there)
and bhss on the northside...
i will add you need some 2000grit sand paper, some petroleum grease, and some htb grease.
to start with you need the rack out of the car, once you have it, wind it lock to lock a few times to expel any p/s fluid that is still inside the hydraulic chamber. (do this somewhere you dont cae about mess, because it will spray a lot out.
next stage you need to pull the rack apart, so to start with you need to remove the power head cap (held on by a large circlip) and the base of the powerhead has a cap over a nut, remove the cap and nut..
before the head comes out, you will need to release the tensioner remove it completely taking note the way the spring sits on the teflon runner
(as there are 2 different racks for the n13)
then the head should be able to be removed easily... next stage is to remove the end cap on the rack, located on the opposite side to the head. the good old stilson wrench should do the trick.
then the rack itself should be able to be slid out... along will come the seal from the cap side, and a spacer, take note on the order of them coming out.
then the rack itself will be seperate from the housing... inside the housing there will be more seals to remove, one down the barrel and one inside the power head housing. (again take note of the seals that come out)
the bearing in the base of the power head should be popped out also.
now you will be left with a completely bare rack. clean all the grease out of the rack housing, and the rack shaft.
now here is the fun part, inspect the shaft for uneven wear and rust spots, these will need to be polished out, (but in a specific way) dont go along the shaft lengthways, go around the shaft as to not wear grooves into it. be carefull not to take too much off the shaft
the same will need to be done on the powerhead to ensure the seals will not foul on any rust or grooves.
next you will want to clean the shaft and powerhead to remove any grit from sanding.
now comes re-assemby there is a teflon bush on the rack shaft with a rubber O ring underneath it , remove it and get the new bush and O ring from the rack kit and fit it (be sure not to stretch the teflon bush or twist it as you will not get a good seal.
now the powerhead bushes need to be removed and replaced with the new seals from the kit. as again, be careful when fitting the new bushes as to not strech them too much or twist them, and make sure they fit into the groove snugly.
time to fit the new seal into the powerhead housing. apply a generous coat of petroleum grease to the seal (will help later on refitting the powerhead so the seal doesnt tear)
now the shaft will need the new seals slid down it on the toothed side, slide the seal and steel spacer onto it in the order it came off, making sure the flat of the seal is facing the outside of the rack. (use wax paper over the teeth as to not tear the seal on the rough parts of the teeth)
use liberal amounts of petroleum grease
slide the new seal onto the other side of the rack shaft. just like you did to the other side.
now the shaft will be ready to be slid back into the housing. gently slide it back in untill it stops, you will need to tap the shaft in to seat the inner seal (be carefull not to jar the seal) then replace the end cap and spacer.
time to put the powerhead back in... gently slide it into the housing (note it will twist itself as it meshes with the rack teeth) use plenty of htb grease.
re-fit the bearing in the bottom of the powerhead housing and use the new nut in the kit to tighten it up, grease it up and then re-fit the cap (sometimes a bit of pipe sealant may be needed)
the powerhead cap needs it's seal replaced now, do so then re-fit it to the powerhead housing and secure it with it's circlip.
time to re-fit the tensioner. unwind it slightly.
make sure the teflon runner has it's steel plate inside it so the spring will seat on it, then add the tensioner to the rack (with it's gasket) and tighten the 2 bolts.
now you need to set the load on the rack, tighten the tensioner untill most (not all) of the side movement is gone. wind the rack lock to lock to see if it feels notchy, if so back off the tension untill it goes away.a small amount of side movement should still be present.
centralise the rack and refit the 2 spacer stops that came off the outside of the rack.
now refit the rack ends, maing sure you bend over the locking tabs...
grease the rack end swivel joints and apply more grease inside the gears of the rack, then fit your rack boots...
you should have something that looks like this.
now refit the bastard to your car and enjoy steering that doesnt feel like a bitch.