BY GTS18EXA (Rhys Hyrapiet)

 

First step is to dismount and move aside the exhaust system, all the hand brake cable's run on top of it. Luckily for me mine is flanged and I just took out the end of it, including the muffler and dismounted a couple of mounts and moved it aside.

Two heat shields have to be removed, one that runs across the car when the end section of the exhaust bents, and the one that runs along the car under centre console. Don't have to remove the shield's further up near the motor.

Once shields are removed start to unbolt hand brake cable mounts, 3 on each side. Put the bolts back into the floor so you know which is which for where, they look similar but are slightly different.

Remove both cables from the T piece on the hand brake lever, that cable with the T piece has to come out later anyways.

Hand brake cables should be fully detached from the floor of the car by now and only attached to the drums.

Firstly unscrew brake hose right at the top, from where the rubber brake hose joins to the metal brake line.

Then unbolt two bolts on the bottom of the strut, then the one on the tip of the sway bar, then the bolt that runs through the suspension arms, all up 4 bolts on each side.

The drums by now should have just fallen into your lap and hopefully not damaged any sensitive organs

Get inside the car...

Now remove the centre console and unbolt the hand brake adjuster bolt that runs along the cable, bolt will come off, but thread, cable and T piece will still be intact. Two bolts holding in the hand brake lever, remove those two and the plastic dust cover from under it.

Cable and T piece should come straight out with lever. Then there is a piece of metal folded around the cable from the lever that needs to be bent back to remove the cable, once cable is removed replace with new disk cable and T piece. Re-fold over the metal flap to secure cable.

Insert hand brake lever and re-bolt up.

Get your hubs, disks and calipers and bolt them back up, in reverse... arms first, sway bar and then strut. Screw back in your new brake line and re thread the hand brake cable, before you re-secure the cable's, first hook them back on to your new T piece. Then re-secure cable's, re-install your heat shields and exhaust.

Bleed brakes, only rear if that's the only one you have opened up and drive away in 4 wheel disk heaven

If your in the same boat as me and desperately need a wheel alignment before Sunday, do not do the brakes on a Saturdays, or you will have to run around every where covered in dirty working on the car clothes hoping that a place is open or not too busy to do your alignment. Lucky I found a place.

As for any difference in braking, it was a wet day so I couldn't really tell, should help though. I still am using the standard Master Cylinder without any flaw. I was told by a wrecker that I would need to change that too, not true guys.

A big thank you to Billy (68OU1) for the new braking equipment and for his help on the finishing stages, you the man Billy !!!

 

Disclaimer

Although care has been taken to produce this article, use this only as a guide. www.Exaclub.net, their editors, and members do not take any responsibility for damage or failure of components. In other words, if you're unsure about a technical problem then see a qualified mechanic.

 

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