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Thread: All N13 EXA "How To's"

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    [E][X][A][Q][T][A] DEVILsEXA is known as a rock round here DEVILsEXA's Avatar
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    All N13 EXA "How To's"

    There's been alot of threads brought up on similar subjects. And seen as though i'm doing a complete over-haul of my EXA i thought that i may aswell help out by giving answers to those many technical questions to do with our cars...

    How to clean fuel level sending unit. This thread has been un-stuck and can be accessed here http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8842

    One of the main ones, and hard to go by the diagram in the workshop manual is the Vac lines.
    I have written down how i ended up with mine with lots of hours worth of testing. Now these may still not be 100% correct but worked for me. One thing to remember before atempting any change on your engine is remember/take a pic or label things that you are going to change so that you can allways put it back how it was if it doesn't work!

    I hope this makes sense... The things in *stars* are located on the attached pic.

    Solenoid with the Grey plug. (AIV Control Solenoid) *AVIS*
    Single Line off the back of the solenoid goes to a Y connector. *Y1*
    Front Inner most line goes to the Vacuum Canister. *VC*
    Front Outer most line goes to the *AIV* (on the side of the block with metal pipe going into the exhaust).

    Solenoid with Black plug which uses loom plug with blue wires. (Power Valve Control Solenoid) *PVCS*
    Rear line goes to Y connector *Y4*. (yes i know i missed Y3, thats later).
    Front Inner line, has a check valve *CV* and goes to the Power Valve Actuator. *PVA*
    Front Outer line goes to Y connector *Y5*

    Solenoid with the other black plug (this is the one facing the other way) and uses the loom plug with the grey wires. (EGR Control Solenoid) *EGRS*
    Rear line goes straight up to the Throttle Body Nipple *TB*.
    Front Inner line goes to a Y connector *Y6*.
    Front Outer line goes goes to Y connector *Y4*.

    *Y1* Goes upto the Intake Duct.
    *Y2* Has a line from the BPTV and EGRV, the other joining onto *Y6*
    *Y3* Has a line going to the Fuel Rail *FPR* and the Manifold *MV*.
    *Y4* Has a line going to Y1.
    *Y5* One line goes to Vacuum Tank *VT* with a check valve inline, another line to *Y3*.
    *Y6* Has a line going to the top of the Carbon Canister and to another Y connector *Y2*.


    For more info, or if you'd like something specific please PM or Email me!


    EDIT: Just a note... on my sisters car i've been playing arround with the vac lines and found a setting that gave me great torque and perfect top end transition. Aswell as (i'm pretty sure) giving me better fuel econ.
    "Solenoid with the Grey plug.
    Single Line off the back of the solenoid goes to a Y connector. *Y1*
    Front Inner most line goes to the AIV (on the side of the block with metal pipe going into the exhaust).
    Front Outer most line goes to another Y connector *Y2*."

    Swapped these two to be like this.
    Front Outer most line goes to the AIV (on the side of the block with metal pipe going into the exhaust).
    Front Inner most line goes to another Y connector *Y2*

    Also something you might find confusing.

    When i reffer to "Front Inner and Front Outer" I mean, when looking at the Solenoids... the Back of the solenoid has a nipple comming straight off it. Then the FRONT of the solenoid has two nipples comming out of it on a right angle. Inner means the one closer to the BACK of the solenoid. And Outer mean the one closest to the FRONT.

    Two solenoids have the FRONTS pointing to the back of the engine bay. One has the FRONT pointing to the front of the engine bay.

    I hope that helps you all out!
    Attached Images
    Last edited by DEVILsEXA; 15th March 2009 at 07:39 PM.

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    Discussion Thread HERE

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    How to take off black plastic strip "from hell".

    First of all you need to take off the weather seal, just a few plug type clips and three hidden screws.

    Then that will reveal the metal strip behind it which helps hold the weather seal in place. This is held on by three screws and double sided tape.



    Carefully peal that off.



    Now this is the tricky part. There are three clips holding the trim on. One at the bottom, middle and top. Ofcause if all these clips went the same way there is a high risk of it falling off. So they (Nissan) made the bottom and middle clip the same but the top clip is the opposite. Bottom and Middle slide downwards off the clip and Top one slides up off the clip.
    So the easiest way to do this is to lever the top clip out. They use a 'bee sting' type of clip. If your clever enough *like me * You'll find you'll be able to put some outwards force on it, lever the top stinger down and it will pop out then do the same with the bottom one and the 'bee sting' is now out.




    There... that's the hard part done.

    Now holding the trim flat as possible (ie. in the closest position as possible as it is when on the car) hold the bottom part with one hand and other hand still holding the top part out enough that the clip doesn't go back in push downwards.
    Now with a bit of force the trim will all of a sudden clip off.



    Then you can easily take out the remaining two clips.



    Once you've done that side the other will be easy!


    Hope this helps. I know these trims are getting rarer so that is why i felt the need to finally give away the secret.

    I WILL be having some of these made up in the near future so that there is no more need to pay the rediculas price Ni$$an are charging for them. $300+ A SIDE.



    Note: The proper way to get these off (which usually yeilds in a broken one). Is to push the trim downwards, the middle clip will slide off. Then slide it upwards, the top clip will slide off. Then downwards again and it will come off the bottom clip.
    All that without the need to take off the weather seal etc etc.
    But as i said... usaully ends up with a broken one if you haven't done it before!


    EDIT:
    Just an addition to the above post. When putting them back on, it is a good idea to stuff the gap behind the beesting clip with some cardboard or silicon or something. As they are the parts that are prone to breaking.
    Especially when your trying to push them back in!
    Last edited by DEVILsEXA; 12th July 2006 at 11:59 PM.

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    Josh (Pigman_84)'s how to rebuild your T2/25/28 turbo writeup with pics.
    http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31727

    Matt (mattybaby)'s how to install a bosch 040 fuel pump writeup with some diagrams and pics.
    http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31887

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    How-to: Change a head gasket. Applies to all CA engines. FWD & RWD will be similar but not the same!

    http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34504

    Also... i'm updating the VAC line layout as i've come up with a much better one. I'll also put up some pictures/diagrams which will be a huge help for you!

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    [E][X][A][Q][T][A] DEVILsEXA is known as a rock round here DEVILsEXA's Avatar
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    Adjusting the TPS (Throttle Position Switch &/or Sensor)

    Hey guys... about time i put this up.

    1) TPS = This is two devices in one. Throttle Position Sensor.

    TVS: Throttle Valve Switch; On a manual car it is an Idle Switch, on an Auto it is both Idle and Full Throttle Switch.

    TPS: On both manual and auto the 2nd part of the device is the same "Throttle Position Sensor" or "Potentiometre".

    This Sensor is located on the side of the throttle chamber, a small rectangle black box.

    2) The devices wiring:

    TVS: This is the 3 pin plug on the front of the sensor. The top pin is the Idle Switch. The middle pin is the common pin. The bottom pin is the Full Throttle Switch.

    TPS: On the backside of the sensor comming out of the rear bottom corner are some wires with a larger plug about 10cm away. I will talk about this later.

    3) Initial setup of the TPS:

    Step 1) Take off the intake duct from the throttle chamber so that you may see the 'butterfly' or 'throttle plate'. First you must check that your throttle stopper is set correctly so that your butterfly isn't staying open (letting excess air through) and that it isn't closing too far (this will cause a 'sticky throttle').
    Some may be different but most will just need a small flat blade screw driver to adjust it. To locate the stopper simply look at the opposit side of the throttle chamber to which the sensor is attached, this is the throttle arm to which the throttle cable is attached. At the front/bottom you will see what the arm rests or 'stops' on. It is adjustable from underneath.
    BEFORE you adjust it have a look at the butterfly and where it sits, lightly turn the throttle arm to feel if it's 'sticky', if not then it is ok. Now get a thin sheet of paper and using the corner see if you can slide it under the bottom or through the top of the butterfly while closed. If not, then all is good. If you can the you will need to undo the stopper slightly *1/4 turn at a time* untill the paper will no longer fit under. Now repeat the check to make sure it's not sticking.
    There is a small hole just before the throttle plate at the bottom of the chamber. This should be visable when the plate is fully closed.

    Step 2) Get your multi metre, a philips head screw driver or small 8 or 6mm socket with a long extension and someone to help you... or you can use some multi metre wires with the really small bulldog clips on the ends.
    Set the multimetre to continuity, this setting will have a symbol that looks like an arrow with a line through it close the the head!

    Undo the bolts holding on the TPS enough so that it's not totally loose but you can still turn it freely enough to adjust it by 1mm!

    Step 3) Holding the + side of the multi metre onto the middle pin, and the - side onto the top pin, continuity should be there. If you have an audible metre it will beep, if not it will go from "-" to "0.00" or any number above that on the screen. If you have a different metre and not sure how to use it PM me!

    Step 4) Still holding the metre on those pins get someone to turn the throttle. When it is turned (butterfly open) the metre will read null continuity. i.e. "-"
    Close it again and should come back.

    Step 5) Throttle closed and Metre still on same pins. Move the TPS untill it reads null. Now slowly turn it back the other way untill the metre reads continuity again.
    Lock TPS into place and do a check by turning the throttle. This should be good enough for most people.

    However, i like to get out the 'feeler gauges' used for gapping spark plugs. With the multimetre still on the same pins, with throttle closed, it should be reading continuity. Place a 1mm worth of gauges under the throttle arm and the stopper. The metre should go null, if not it needs adjusting again so undo the screws again.
    Now go down to a 0.6mm gauge. Should read null.
    0.5 or 0.4mm should read continuity!

    Plug the sensor back in and go for a drive. If it's jerky then it's switching 'on' too early. I.e. before the throttle is far enough closed.
    If it's not dropping back down to idle then it's not switching 'on'. I.e. null continuity even when the butterfly is completely closed!

    Step 6) Still seems to have trouble. Read the CA16 Workshop Manual. Section EF&EC page 69. You need to check the harness for dammage! Or CA18 WorkShop Manual Supp. Section EF&EC page 40.

    Additional ways to check without the use of a multi metre is by using Diagnostics mode 4 on the CA18 ECU. But this is not as acurate. Still need to check this to see if the ECU is getting a signal from the TPS or not!

    Comming up next. Checking the POT in the TPS.
    Last edited by DEVILsEXA; 21st October 2006 at 07:24 PM.

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    [E][X][A][Q][T][A] DEVILsEXA is known as a rock round here DEVILsEXA's Avatar
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    TPS Checking Part 2. (Not for CA16'ers).

    Just something to note when doing ECU diag mode 3. "Error Codes" Code 23 is the above item. Code 43 (Not on CA16's) is this item.

    For info and diags on how to check this please see Workshop Manual Series 2 Supplement section EF&EC page 59.

    Find the other plug for the TPS. It will also have three pins. With the flat part of the plug to the bottom (on the tps side) and looking into the plug. Right Pin, Middle Pin and Left Pin.

    Using your multimetre on resitance testing "ohms" (ohms 10 should do). Place the + probe onto the middle pin and the - probe onto the right pin. Turn the throttle arm and the resistance should change increasingly and decreasingly.

    If it doesn't it's either stuffed or your doing something wrong.

    This is ONLY how to check the actual TPS. There may still be other issues, either with the wiring or the ECU. To check everything else it is better if you read the manuals as listed throughout this and the previous post on checking TPS!

    Hope it helps

    Regards,
    Devs.

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    Josh (Pigman_84)'s how to change the Dash Cluster voltage regulator (Fuel and Water Temp gauges).

    http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showt...tage+regulator

    Thread started by "SARS" on ***How To do a rear disc conversion***

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=47329

    Statiks guide to removing an EXA motor.

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=47710

    JoeDaHoe's ***How To rebuild a N13 Power Steering Rack"

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=47248

    Thread started by edk on "Door/Targa seals". Good info on how to repair them. NOTE: These are no longer available to buy new from Nissan (i bought the last ones from Japan).

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=44096

    Thread Started by Ifarner on CA18DE & CA18DET wiring colours, and also Vacuum hose diagram.

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=35698

    Fevers "How to install an Oil Temp/Pressure sender adapter (Sandwich plate)".

    http://forum.nissanexa.com/showthread.php?t=49025
    Last edited by DEVILsEXA; 26th March 2009 at 08:53 PM.

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