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Thread: GA16i to GA16DE swap

  1. #1
    Misses his Red beauty Deano81 is someone we respect Deano81's Avatar
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    Thumbs up GA16i to GA16DE swap

    i found this on AllNissans.com

    i hope it helps you
    sure helped me!!

    a HUGE thank you to Keith (Nasty Nissan) for the write up!



    Here We Go.... Installation of a 92 GA16DE into an 89 Pulsar, originally Ga16i. The car came as a 5spd. So... No Auto to Manual swap info.... In this writeup! This should be the same info for a Ga16i Sentra.

    From the Mechanical standpoint....... If your an Experienced Mechanic, this is actually an easy swap in comparison to some.I'll try to give this as a step-by-step. For specific details, torque specs, and other such info please refer to your FSM, Haynes, Chiltons. I will be happy to help with any other info I can!

    1st things first. SAFTEY! Please make sure to use Jackstands, Hoists, and such as they are MADE for a Reason

    NEEDED PARTS!!!!
    GA16DE engine (Trans optional), Engine wiring harness, ECM. The More Complete you can get the Engine the better.
    Replacement parts (See Day 3)
    Several Lengths of 14ga wire (different colors), Inline fuse holders, Assorted Wiring connectors, LARGE Backup of Fuses, Nissan "Green" relay.
    Fluids, Filters, Etc...

    A. With the vehichle Raised and Supported at an appropriate height, Hood removed.

    UNDER THE CAR..............
    Drain ALL fluids,Execept fuel, from the car. Remove front tires, ALL under-engine plastic, Axle nuts, Lower Ball-joints (you can remove the 2 Strut bolts, BUT will need to realign after), Axles. Disconnect shift linkage from Trans. Disconnect the exhaust where it attaches to the manifold.

    ON TOP................
    Remove the battery, intake ducting, Coil, transistor. Disconnect ALL wiring from the engine. DO NOT CUT WIRES!!! Just fold them back over the fender or such where they'll be out of the way. Disconnect ALL Vaccum, Coolant hoses, At the furthest point from the engine. If you have power steering you can either disconnect the hoses from the pump or detach the pump from the engine. I prefer to disconnect the hoses at the rack/ resivior as it allows for more room to work and easier cleaning. Fuel lines can be disconnected from the Engine and reused. (TRY not to cut them!)Plug the fuel lines and loosen the Fuel Cap. Remove the radiator fans and Radiator.
    AC...If you keep it... Disconnect the AC compressor from the engine and GENTLY find a nice spot to hang it. I like the holes next to the Rad mount and coathangers.

    You should be ready to bring in the engine hoist. Hook it CAREFULLY and pay attention to how the engine will hang once released from the mounts and the Weight shifts! ********BE CAUTIOUS WHEN REMOVING, LOOSENING MOUNTS...THINGS HAVE A TENDENCY TO MOVE!!! YOU MAY HAVE TO ADJUST THE HOIST TO MAKE THINGS COOPERATE...BE CAREFUL!!!**** If yours has a Rear mount that attaches to the firewall go ahead and remove it. Get a slight tension on the chain/ cable and remove the Crossmember and the mounts (you can unbolt the mounts from either the engine or the crossmember, Your choice!). The engine/trans should now be hanging on the hoist with just the MAIN (Pass side)Engine mount and the Trans mount left. Remove the Trans mount FIRST, then the Engine mount. SLOWLY raise the combo out of the car, Making sure everything is DETATCHED on the way out.

    Move it to the side....... Set it on the ground.......... Get a COLD BEER........ AND CALL IT A DAY!!!!


    DAY 2
    If your gonna clean and/or paint your engine bay NOW is the time... This could take day 2,3,and 4.

    More to come..... This is it for Tonight... Gimme some input guys... What have I forgotten?

    Lets see if this will work....

    Before.. The Ga16i with #1 rod sticking out of both the Pan and the Block


    Cleanup... Should have seen it before the Carwash on the way home!


    Look right at home Doesn't it


    Wiring MADNESS!!!! More info on this to come.


    Im working on More..

    Heres My homemade Wiring Diagram..... Hopefully you'll be able to understand it... I'll Be happy to anwser any questions either here or in PM, E-mail...

    Nastynissan007@netscape.net



    DAY 3 (or 5)
    Parts to be re-used....
    Axles, radiator, fans, Rad hoses, Heater core hose (The Long one), Alt (and Harness), PS, (Alt and PS are interchangeable) ALL motor/Trans mounts, Motor mount bracket from behind Alt, Frt (Torque mount) bracket from engine, Rear Bracket for Firewall and Rear Engine mount. You can use either the Ga16i or the GA16DE trans, flywheel, clutch (I prefer the DE). I used the original trans as the Pulsar came with a Slightly lower final drive ratio than the Sentra. It makes a BIG Difference in Accleration! (Reference-http://www.sentra.net/tech/transmis...7da49c0493ea b)
    Also you'll need what I call the Sub-Harness. Its the harness that runs across the back of the motor and hooks to the CTS, Oil Pressure, Starter Signal, Neutral Saftey, Back-up lights. You can use the belts off the Ga16i if your engine came without any...

    Prepping the GA16DE for install.....
    Personally I prefer to do work on an engine with it out of the vehichle. MY Normal procedure is to do a FULL tune-up (Plugs, Wires, Dist cap, rotor, PCV, Air & Fuel filters,etc), VC gasket, Front and Rear Main seals, and replace ANY hoses that look as though they might cause issues in the future. This is when you put ALL the afore mentioned parts (Trans, hoses, mounts, brackets and such) onto the DE. Leave the and Trans mount OFF unti the engine is installed (More working room) ALL of this is "By The Book" with no Mods necessary. (With 2 exceptions listed below). I "SUGGEST" wiring the DE with its harness before installing. The Pass. motor mount has to be "Modified" to fit around the timing cover. (I'll get pics and a description of where to cut, up shortly.) ALSO the Sub-Harness has to have the CTS wire extended approx. 18 inches.

    Prepping the Car for the install......
    You need to Remove the Radio surround, Plastic shrouding (Inner kick panels), Pull the Pass side carpet back, and "Hopefully" find a removable rubber "Plug". If not you may need to "CREATE" a hole, or do as I did and use the hole for the Heater Core drain. I removed the Tube that ran outside, opened the hole and used it to run the Engine wiring through.
    You need to remove the Backseat (Access to Fuel Pump wiring) and Driver side sill plate. Also the trim under and surrounding the steering column. Remove the Acclerator cable also.***You do need a B-13 acclerator cable****

    Day 4
    Lets install an engine!
    CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY lower the engine/trans into the engine bay. Be Cautious of your wiring, and when the engine is 1/2 to 3/4 into the bay you'll want to feed you wiring harness through the firewall. Install the Trans mount (Loosely) as your lowering the engine into position (Sometimes a Jack can come in handy here), This will be the FIRST Re-Attaching point. Then install the Pass. mount. You "Should" now be able to re-install the crossmember and ALL the other mounts. Its a GOOD idea to install all the Mount bolts a little loose until ALL the mounts are in place. Tighten the mounts up in This order.... Trans, Pass. Engine mount, Rear engine mount, and THEN your front and rear torque mounts.

    Now for ALL the Little stuff.... Exhaust (Will bolt right up to the DE manifold), Shift linkage, Axles, Radiator, hoses, PS lines, Alt wiring (Goes into factory B-12 Harness). Clutch cable, Speedo cable, Acclerator cable, *****I FORGOT TO MENTION THE REMOVAL OF THESE EARLIER***** You'll reuse the Longer of the 2 original heater core hoses and 1 (I dont remember which) B-13 hose. The Sub-Harness also plugs back into it's "Stock" position. Bolt the AC compressor back up. Install Battery and tray. I used a WAI so I'm not certain if the Factory ducting will work or not. Leave the "Engine Plastic" off until you are CERTAIN there are no leaks or other isssues

    Go over EVERYTHING 2-3 times before you Finally decide that its all bolted up. Once Everythign is SECURE you can go ahead and Refill ALL your fluids. Make certain to Bleed the cooling system as your manual instructs (Air bleed on Pass side of intake manifold). Once this is done you should be ready to lower the vehichle, Reinstall the hood, and PREPARE for the interesting part, WIRING!

    I think you Deserve Another COLD BEER....... I know I do!

    Once again
    Thanks Keith (Nasty Nissan)

    If any of you out there have completed this swap and have any input or advice let me know.

    PS. this post can be found HERE
    Last edited by Deano81; 21st August 2006 at 09:37 AM.

  2. #2
    Shes on fire!!!!! ty_exa is a name known to all ty_exa is a name known to all ty_exa's Avatar
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    i dont have this engine, but i DEFINATELY think this is worth a sticky for further help for the over-seas members with this engine (poor unfortunate souls)....wish they could share our ca18de engine as a stock engine...

    Ty
    GAZZA says:
    id sooner root you
    Ty- YEEWWW!!! says:
    Naww shux
    you make me feel warm and fuzzy inside
    GAZZA says:
    if me you and courtny were in a house youd betta sleep on your back with a base ball glove

  3. #3
    Misses his Red beauty Deano81 is someone we respect Deano81's Avatar
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    (poor unfortunate souls)....wish they could share our ca18de engine as a stock engine...


    thank you

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