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Thread: N13 Mods & General Modification Prices.

  1. #61
    .\\\\'EXA 1.8T'////.
    Join Date
    May 2006

    Quote Originally Posted by 12.2ET@124MPH View Post
    for those who r sick of breaking standard gear boxes i have an option that might interest you! i have put a 92 maxima vg30 drive line into my n13 PULSAR (GEAR BOX ,DRIVE SHAFTS, HUBS & BRAKES) should be the same to put into N13 exa!
    it's rather a simple process. gear box bolts straight up to the CA18DET you need to get a clutch plate to suit the larger spline! most nissans are the same eg silvia skyline patrol all have the same spline.
    engine mounts dont change but the passenger side mount needs to be moved forward to the next two holes in the chassis!
    drive shafts stay the same
    you need to modify the hubs a lil, where the ball joint bolts up you need to machine out and get a sleeve put in to suit the N13 ball joint. you also need to drill out the bottom hole on the strut a lil bit bigger to fit the right bolt for the hub

    that should be all will post a better write up when i get time!
    very inetested in this... would lead to a better brake upgrade option when the time comes for me as the Maxima has way better aftermarket than the Pulsar (EXA) over here in the states.

    Quote Originally Posted by MrBoom
    the blinker goes *flash* *flash*
    and the parker goes *light*

  2. #62
    maz to try n keep this thread clean might be an idea to 'pm" 12.2et to talk to him more about it there or make a new thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SIK__M8 View Post
    loook its bogan rant rant rant rant rantbuy my exa rant rant rant

  3. #63
    EXA/NX Maniac capitalgainz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008


    Quote Originally Posted by mcalvo_cr View Post
    Thanks for the input guys.. how much will it be lowed having L in the front and SL in the back? 1.5 inches maybe? My concern is about having the carter too close from the road so I could damage it any time. The last time I lowered my ride cuttin the springs (yeah.. I know now it is quite stupid) I hit the header so bad that have to get it professional fixed (cutting and replace the whole curve in one ot the pipes)..

    Here at Costa Rica, streets are just crap. Swamps and holes here and there when you don't expect them .. Last night I just squared my left front rim falling in a stupid hole covered with whater. Dented the rim in two different spots. Now let see if I can get it fixed..

    Thanks again!
    sounds like adelaide roads lol
    fuck the 1/4 mile slide your ride !!!!!!!!!!hell yeah!!!?!!!
    i dont have an anger problem, i get pissed off so you get pissed on ..... no problem

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Feb 2007

    Quote Originally Posted by sos6661 View Post
    hey guys,
    would i be able to get a price on all the sensors? i'm still to do a fault code check on the ecu, but would like to replace all my sensors anyways.

    and cypress.....yeah GM owns holden in australia, i think they always have.....just the australian GM sorta.......GM also recently bought out another manufacturer, can't remember which one in particular though.

    anyways cheers fellas,
    Hey Steve. Just thought I'd let you know I had a whole heap of things done on my Exa by East Coast Auto Electrics on Price street in Scambour for a really good price. Not a thing to complain about. They're right down the end of the road-last shed at the end of the culdesac. You'll drive straight up their driveway if you dont stop at the end of the road. WM.

  5. #65
    ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐ joe_da_hoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006

    well if the vg30 driveline fits, how about the vg30 aswell?

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by joe_da_hoe View Post
    well if the vg30 driveline fits, how about the vg30 aswell?
    what do u think... a b it of commen sense will tell u the answer there

    Quote Originally Posted by SIK__M8 View Post
    loook its bogan rant rant rant rant rantbuy my exa rant rant rant

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Apr 2004

    Quote Originally Posted by StaTiK View Post

    I'll start putting some DIY articles up that i can think of and be bothered to type up. I hope they can help someone out one day. ill keep updating this post.



    for the ricers:

    Statik's Lazy/Sleepy eye mod:

    remove the headlight switch, and behind the button that you press to make your lights go up/down without turning on the lights (wash mode), there is a thick blue wire with a red stripe. cut it, and in the middle of the cut wire, you attach a switch. you will want to extend the wire you just cut with more wire, so you can mount the switch somewhere else.

    What the switch does is cut off power to the headlight motors when you put them up/down. i find using a toggle switch is the easiest to use to stop the headlights.

    To give the lights the 'sleepy eyes' look, all you need to do is have the switch set to ON and press the wash mode button to allow your headlights to go up. put the switch to the OFF position when they get to the top, and press your wash mode button, so the headlights would normally go down. They wont go down, because theres no power going to the motors. flick the toggle switch quickly, and the lights will slowly go down. try and stop it in the desired position, and there you go. sleepy/lazy eye conversion!

    $3 - toggle switch
    $5 - roll of wire

    the outcome should be somthing like this:


    Statik's guide to Tinting Taillights:
    This is such an easy 'mod' to do that makes such a difference to the look of the car. It takes a fair amount of time, but it is worth it IMO.

    What you need:
    can of 'Nite Shades' - available from supercheap, auto one, repco, etc
    roll of masking tape
    stanley blade
    solvent degreaser
    paddlepop stick or similar

    1) Start off by cleaning the taillights. both the lenses and between the lenses. clean them with a wet cloth to start off with, then clean them with some solvent degreaser. make sure there is no dirt/dust left on them. dry the taillights thoroughly.

    2) Run lines of masking tape over the entire taillight, making sure there isnt any of the lense or housing uncovered. It should look somthing like this:

    3) with the paddlepop stick, push the masking tape down & run it all around the lenses making sure the masking tape is stuck to the colored part of the taillight.

    4) Next, get a stanley knife or a sharp blade, and cut around the edge of the lense. you can run the knife along the corner of the raised bit of the lense to get in there nicely. make sure you cut the tape all the way through. Be extremely careful when doing this, as if you fuck up, you need to do the entire thing again most likely, otherwise you will end up with paint where you dont want it. When you have cut around each lense slit of the taillights, peel the masking tape off the LENSE ONLY.

    5) Get your drop sheets/newspaper, and cover up any exposed area of your car around the taillights. you dont want to end up with the Nite Shades all over your bodywork. I didnt manage to upload my photos of this stage, so ill use one of Ty's photos, which im sure he wont mind me doing:

    6) now it is time for your can of Nite Shades to come out! evenly spray light coats over your taillights, and allow to dry. i only left about 10 mins between coats, but more is recommended. Keep applying until you achieve the desired darkness. i only did about 4 coats. I would of prefered more like 6, just for that extra dark effect. i will be re-doing the tinting soon and making them darker.

    7) Remove the dropsheets/newspaper and what is left of your masking tape. if you did it correctly, you will come away with having a beautifully tinted taillight. Make sure the Nite Shades has dried before removing the tape.
    Repeat for the other taillight.
    - left taillight tinted here
    - both taillights tinted

    This is a really easy and cheap way to make your car look alot better. The Nite Shades still allows all normal light to shine through, but you may get a defect notice by the bastards in blue... Hope this will of been able to help someone.

    PRICE: (rough)
    can of 'Nite Shades': $22
    roll of masking tape: $2
    stanley blade: $1
    dropsheets/newspaper: should own
    solvent degreaser: $12 for a large bottle
    cloth : should own
    paddlepop stick or similar : can use a pencil, ruler, etc.


    Roughly $30 to tint the taillights. there is enough tint in the can to do your front indicators and parkers, as shown:


    written by StaTiK, and thanks to Ty for the pics of his exa
    would highly and i mean highly recommend getting some clear coat to cover the night has a tidency to fade ....
    T-1 Certified AMSoil Dealer
    for all your synthetic oil and filter needs

  8. #68
    SR20 Abuser jordsnissannx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008

    so has everyone run outta ideas now or something lol

    and is there one for the b13? if not can one be made plz?


  9. #69
    Guru Buzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003

    don't think there was one for the b13 you should start one tho
    Green is not a colour it's a state of mind!!

    ShReXa in the making CLICK HERE

  10. #70
    brap brap brap StaTiK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005

    TOOQIKK, my taillights havent faded after 3 years.

    Jordan, i had a shitload more, but cant be assed putting them up.

  11. #71
    First Time Poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2008

    do you know of any places in perth that can do that and the price you paid for the ecu to be remaped

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Apr 2004

    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    what do u think... a b it of commen sense will tell u the answer there
    could be done...some one stuffed one in a b14 on the sr20forum
    just need a little time and money...that is why i have an sr20det awd n13

    you can get ebay strut bars ...get the flat ones not the round ones they make a difference no as good as a nismo or cusco bar(this is the bar of bars!!) but it does make a very noticeable difference

    you can also get agx adjustable shocks

    you guys really should check out sr20 forums
    alot of the parts from b13s will work on the brake up grades(front), suspensions(shocks/coil overs), strut bars(cusco) ,headers(sr/ga) etc

    ill try and find all the prices and see if i can find some links too for them....
    there is a vendor section too....hope this link is helpful
    Last edited by TOOQIKK; 27th January 2009 at 12:41 AM.
    T-1 Certified AMSoil Dealer
    for all your synthetic oil and filter needs

  13. #73
    Newbie bloodgrl18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010

    Exclamation help a newbie.please with a cherry on top

    hi guys and gals. ive just joined and its all because i brought my first car which was a a nissan exa twin cam 1.8L 1988 only done 200,000km(which later at the mechanics i discover its not the original engine). paid $1700. the baby looked in great shape(inside and out except the paint peeling of front bumper and the air-con blew hot air) sounded awesome except for a whirring noise and great to drive . . . . why so cheap . . . well the guy i brought it of told me the speedo was broken and there was a oil leak . . . and i was a idiot because i didnt take it to the mechanics for a full check over before the deal was sealed.

    anyway went to the mechanics for a service and a check over. i paid $667 just for that and this was what came back wrong which still needs to be fixed.

    this is whats written on invoice so i hope it makes more sense to you then me

    oil leak coming from steering rack, cam shaft and crank seal.

    checked speedo, pulled drive out of gear box
    the problem appears to be in gauge or cable

    the gearbox will need to be pulled apart to further diagnose the problem with slipping out of gear( it slips outta 1st and 2nd gear when i go over a bump or turn a corner. 3rd, 4th and 5th gear are fine)

    brake master cylinders need to be replaced.

    after i got told this i know i got ripped for the car and i dnt even know what half the parts are or what they do. im a bakers apprentice not a mechanic.

    the mechanic told me he can get quotes for the parts. i usually wouldnt mind that but after paying $667 for a service and 3.5 hours labor($125 per hour they charged) and find out all of this and knowing the parts are costly im trying to look for good parts that are low price especially since im gonna have to pay frate since i live in Port Hedland WA

    well what ever info you can give me bout parts or anything would help. also my car didnt come with the book which is very helpful(not) so where can i find one. you can either send me a msg on here or contact me on

    sorry for my rant and hope you find time to read this and help me . . . . please with a cheery on top im begging you

  14. #74
    Turbo N12 Mech Stevoss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005

    the price you paid for the exa is reasonable, some people have bought and exa with a shot bottom end, paint, mounts, rack, pump, tyres etc for about $1200,

    so count yourself lucky with the little problems and you got ripped on the service big time lol, 125 an hour gold plated mechanic... and mate if you want to own an exa those problems are pretty common, it might pay to learn how to do things yourself to save money just search or start a new thread and ask.
    Super Happy Fun White hatch Club Member and Proud of it

  15. #75
    EXA/NX Maniac evl_ca18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010


    boot gas strut mod

    items needed
    12m spanner
    13mm spanner

    1995 Mitsubishi magna bonnet struts are 18.5mm

    the orginal nissal boot struts are allso 18.5mm

    first take your old gas struts off and keep the bolts

    you will see a white plastic washer with a tab now file that tab down flush with the plastic washer

    install the
    1995 Mitsubishi magna bonnet struts for the boot lid and enjoy for the boot not to fall on your head

    not hard to do takes about 5mins if that

  16. #76
    Platinum Member importracer4lyf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009

    you could also use ef falcon bonnet struts

  17. #77
    I recently replaced my clutch.

    My flywheel is a S13 180sx - 287mm face diameter- cost to machine $70
    clutch i used is Xtreme ceramic clutch 1050kg clamp load- 225mm clutch (s13 180sx) $600
    thrust bearing is from a pulsar GTiR - (ntn bearing) FCR62-28-6 $66

    ceramic clutch will eat through your flywheel and pressure plate. But they are guaranteed not to slip.

  18. #78
    Newbie shifty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010

    ca18de sways big upgrade to e16i or ga16

    i finally got my sway bars form a 1988 dohc pulsar i just want to confirm fit no problem huge difference

  19. #79
    Guru Buzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003

    the australian pulsar has diffrent front swaybar to the exa i know as i got a n13 pulsar stock on and an exa one and put them side by side
    Green is not a colour it's a state of mind!!

    ShReXa in the making CLICK HERE

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Jul 2013

    Podfilter is the best mod for nice sound


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