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Thread: Battery to boot relocation for N12 EXA and ET.

  1. #1
    Guru of boostage Ben Hewitson is known as a rock round here Ben Hewitson's Avatar
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    Battery to boot relocation for N12 EXA and ET.

    As this topic has been discussed multiple time through out this forum, i thought it was high time to actually lay some of the questions and methods to rest. Most of us have at least wondered about this modification, but many have been hesitant to undertake it. This might because of a lack of understanding as to why you'd move a battery from the factory location, or perhaps its one of those things that we want to do but never get around to.

    What follows is a brief article with a comprehensive step by step preceedure of how to relocate the battery to the boot of your N12 EXA or ET turbo Pulsar, or for that matter, any other vehicle. There will be different ways in which you can achieve these results cheaper than i have, but i leave the final details up to the reader to choose their desired setup.

    Firstly there are a number of reasons that you would want to put the battery in the boot of your car. Here are some of the reasons i came up with whilst deciding to modify my cehicle in this manner.

    1). With AFM relocation on the horizon i required space to add a cold air box and to aleiviate some of the room in the under bonnet area for intercooler piping etc.

    2). Reduce weight over the front axle when adding an intercooler and allowing th ecar to have a slightly better weight ballance.

    3). Batteries that are not subjected to the constant change of underbonnet temperature during operation and shutdown and can maintain a relatively even temperature range will last longer. this is prooven quite simply in my Fathers BMW where all the battery's are located in the boot and last on average 12 years..


    So lets begin this little excersice.. I allowed myself 2 hours for this modifcation, and i believe that you can easily do the same give or take 30mins.

    Step one should be to aquire all your parts. For this build i used heavy duty Battery Cable (had some but you can find at Jaycar for between $12 and $20 a meter), Jaycar 4 and 8 guage cable ends ($2 - $4.95 each), a plastic Marine switch with 2 red keys ($8.95) , a Supercheap Auto's large battery box ($19) and a Jaycar 120A circuit breaker with LED and voltage display ($49).

    Once you have all your bits, you can start to get the car ready. I started by moving our 4WD out of the garage to give my self some space. there is nothing worse than having no room to open the doors enough to get inside the car to remove trim and seats etc..



    AS i've already installed a false floor into my N12 EXA i thought about places to mount the battery that would allow me to remove the tyre covering panel and allow access to the rear brake and indicator lights if i should need to replace a bulb at some stage. I marked the floor for an aproximate location so i could calculate cable lengths and room etc.



    Just a simple pencil mark for now should do.

    [img]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...atRelo-003.jpg[/img]

    The next step you should undertake is mounting the cercuit breaker or fuse. You should always put the fuse on the positive side as close to the batter terminal as possible. that way if there is a short down the line the breaker will trip and the cable wont heat up and potentially cause a fire. locate the breaker/fuse and drill the guide holes. Please note that this breaker requires it to be bolted to an earthing plate, but i will wire around this later becasue its mounted to plastic.



    Drill the holes in the Battery Box and then make sure you use a large drill bit to 'de-bur' the faces to allow a snug fit.



    Once the holes are drilled you can mount the Breaker or Fuse and screw the bolts through. I decided to mount a piece of thin wood behind to make the setup more rigid because the heavy cables or movement might tear out the small bolts and relatively soft plastic. You might need to cut the bolts off and cover them from behind to protect the battery from sharp objects.





    Finished Breaker




    The next bit step is to remove the standard Air Conditioning box from under the dash. i'll assume that you're all capable of removing the parts but i will offer the following tips. You'll need to remove the large aluminium block from the engine bay side of the fire wall to allow this box to be removed. Ove that is done the metal plate and rubber grommet can be removed alone with the 3 screws that hold the box up. I've decided to take this out alltogether becasue i have no A/C and this just a waste of space. If your car has an alarm system, now is the time to disable it or turn the siren off because as soon as it detects the battery being 'cut' it will think its being broken into and defen you instantly...

    You are more than welcome to work around this box if you have intact A/C, but the job will be a dificult one with a very small working area being left.



    Please dont damage this as you'll need it later to run the cable through the firewall and protect it from rubbing on the bodywork.



    Start feeding the cable through the car.. First off through the back.



    Then under the rear seat and carpet.



    Under the seatbelt retaining rods and the side trim.



    And then up through the firewall via the same space provided for the computer loom and other wiring. before you ask about electrical interfeerence, i have experienced none since installing this kit.



    Now you've got your cable throught the firewall, you can start to cut and prepare the ends for termination.



    Before laying the seats and trim back into place use a rubber product to protect cable from wearing on parts of the vehicle that might cause the cable damage.. Keen Exophiles may recognise this as a heater hose and it fits perfectly around the curves in the body.. just a fluke i'd say.



    Now that you have replaced everything, you'll notice how invisible the cable really is.. its fantastic.. cant see it at all and it doesn't even come close to any moving parts like the seat rail, or seatbelt mounts. great job.





    Ok. now its time to secure the cable into the engine bay. On previous cars (my brothers) the cable went straight to the starter solenoid and then branched off from there. I've decided to keep the standard wiring and fusable links and to do that i decided on a cheap Marin Switch from Sprint Autoparts for $8.95.. well worth it.



    Everyones mounting technique will be different but i decided to make a bracket from angle.



    As you can see this is a very neat install and it allows the battery to be cut off via two methods.. Marine switch and Circuit Breaker.



    i had to make a new power cable to the starter solenoid so i made a simple link cable from 8gauge wire (standard is 12 or 16). This looks leater and i've found that the car cranks much easier without the lights dimming. It also start on the 2nd or 3rd revolution in cold conditions. so its definately an improvement on the standard setup. You can also see the original fuseable link cables attached here as well. they had loops on the top to attach to the positive on the battery terminal so it was just a case of opening the loop out a little and attaching it to the bolt. very easy and it retains the factory protection that the car requires.



    Now that the front of the car has been taken care of, its time to attach the rear cables.. I started by mounting the Earth to the bodywork in the back. i used an existing hole and gave it a light sand with 400grit paper to allow a metal to metal contact patch. very neat location.



    So.. here we go. all sorted and hooked up. looking great with the LED display.





    Ps.. dont forget to strap down the battery box lid with the supplied strap. I have decided to modify it further by cutting the underside off the MDF to allow easier access with the tyre cover panel. this is one of those things were even the best thought out plans can have a little hitch.



    Finally you'll need to add a few things for legality.

    one of those things is a vent tube (to discharge the gas outside the car when the battery is charging) and the other is a metal retainer like the factory item that held the battery in place.

    My version of the vent tube will come out the top of the box and run underthe floor to one of the drain ports or to the tyre well and out of that port. which ever is easier.

    Ok then. One last thing. if you want to remove the battery tray, and thus your radiator overflow tank, i have a simple solution. Go find an N/A N12 and take the overflow from that. it screws into the bodywork aproximately where the original Air Filter Box was located. it uses a short hose and it looks rather trick. i'll take a photo soon and post it up.
    Benagiser

    I didn't buy an early model Nissan FWD turbo cause i wanted a reliable car now did I...?
    "The smaller the monkey the more it looks like it would kill you at the first given opportunity"





    ,`,,`,,`, <== What is this..? Why do people do this..? Its making me all..ARGH..!

  2. #2
    Semi-retired veteran chkn72 has a brilliant future chkn72 has a brilliant future chkn72 has a brilliant future chkn72 has a brilliant future chkn72's Avatar
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    nicely done, really good read and i'm sure the same steps will work for any car! are you going to be putting a grommet in the firewall where you fed the positive wire through??



  3. #3
    Banned Pulsar_ET-R is someone we respect Pulsar_ET-R's Avatar
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    um check the pics lol he has

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    ┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐ joe_da_hoe has a brilliant future joe_da_hoe has a brilliant future joe_da_hoe has a brilliant future joe_da_hoe has a brilliant future joe_da_hoe has a brilliant future joe_da_hoe's Avatar
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    good stuff ben, i have done the relocation similar to this but it doesn't look as good as yours i'll try and get some pics over the weekend if you think they may be usefull?... but you got it covered pretty well

  5. #5
    Metalhead Slack has disabled reputation Slack's Avatar
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    Is the battery box bolted to the false floor?
    exa velocity maxim

  6. #6
    4X4 Owner wado600 is someone we respect wado600's Avatar
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    Nice battery box postion looks simular to mine I found while it did look untidy there it still allowed me to get my spare wheel out and change any blown lights in the tail light.

    I love the idea of the switch in the engine bay. Much easier to isolate the battery when working on the electrics. I relied on flicking the circuit breaker mounted to the battery box.

    I would only use 2 guage cable as the main cable until you want to distribrute the power. My version the main battery cable went to the starter motor, then 4 guage to a distribrution box located where the battery used to go and all the old battery connections went in there. I chopped of the fusible links with the intention of replacing them with fuses which I never got around to doing.

    Also I had a problem with my alternator wiring to the battery. I was getting around 14V at the B+ terminal but only 12.something at the battery and was having trouble driving at night. To simlify things I ran 8 guage from the B+ terminal to the sarter motor terminal. What I'm trying to say is that a battery relocation may help preserve the battery life, provide easier wiring for amps and easier starting but if your alternator or wiring is not performing well then it'll have trouble pushing the charge up 3 metres worth of cable and this mod will highlight that.

    Make sure that the connectors you use are of good quality. As pointed out before Jaycar do reasonably cheap gold plated terminals that suit different guages of cable. Nothing worse than seeing an undersized connetor with strands of wire poking out. If you used crimp connectors make sure that you get a proper cripping tool to crimp then proporly. I used heatshrink over my connectors to provide additional insulation, strength and to stop water pooling in the connectors.

    When I did mine which is very simular to this one. (funny enough as Ben would have had a good look over mine) I had a 120A circuit breaker lying around from an old car stereo installation. Auto elecs advised me to use a 200A one but I ran the car with it for over 12 months and it never tripped once. So if 120A seems a little low to you then that why.

    In the position that the battery box is in there is a grommet pretty much next to the box which makes an idea vent.

    The only thing I didn't like about this mod is the battery box it self. The strap on the box is a pain in the backside espeically if you want to check your electrolite level(which your supposed to do every week haha). I think I cracked the box from getting angry with it lol. So suggest a maintence free or gel cel type battey.
    Last edited by wado600; 21st January 2007 at 09:50 AM.

  7. #7
    Banned Pulsar_ET-R is someone we respect Pulsar_ET-R's Avatar
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    GEL CELL FTW!!!!111one

  8. #8
    Guru of boostage Ben Hewitson is known as a rock round here Ben Hewitson's Avatar
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    to add to neils post, the problem with the charge setup on that car was traced back to a broken wire in the main loom around the drivers side head lamp. i managed to find and fix it.

    I basically copied Neils setup for my car, but added the marine switch in the engine bay to act as a distribution point. very good job by neil too.
    Benagiser

    I didn't buy an early model Nissan FWD turbo cause i wanted a reliable car now did I...?
    "The smaller the monkey the more it looks like it would kill you at the first given opportunity"





    ,`,,`,,`, <== What is this..? Why do people do this..? Its making me all..ARGH..!

  9. #9
    Platinum Gold Member neb_sirrom is someone we respect neb_sirrom's Avatar
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    believe me this looks heaps better in person. awesome job ben.
    cant wait to see this beast back on the road hammering around. lol
    congrats man on an excellent job

  10. #10
    Gold Member _tomcat_ is well respected _tomcat_'s Avatar
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    If i was going to do the battery relocation, could i use my stereo amplifier cabling that i already have to connect from the starter terminal to the battery in the boot ? I know battery cable has less strands of wire , but i already have 4 gauge wire, so it would be great if i could just use that instead of running new wire.

  11. #11
    Club Member [SHO-OOD] has disabled reputation
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    ok thats the start however, this is NOT upgrading the Earthing of the car at all!
    MY kit upgrades the Positive runs as well as the negative runs!
    Current ride: 91 exa with a gp badge
    lowered king springs rear (front to come) new shocks
    SYSTEMS IN, Check it out
    http://www.nissanexa.com/forum/showt...151#post340151

  12. #12
    Guru Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz's Avatar
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    why upgrade when you don't need to tho?
    Green is not a colour it's a state of mind!!

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  13. #13
    Sound System GOD bitches fever is a name known to all fever is a name known to all fever's Avatar
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    what he means buzz is that in electric or electronic lay "to allow better electric flow of either a normal battery or a gel cell or whatever.. all the cables will have to be the same AWG.."

    that means that if you put a 0 AWG on the positive battery, just say for your amp, you will have to put a 0 AWG cable for the negative cause if you put for example a ) awg in + ve and a 4AWG in -ve then the electric flow will be unbalanced this it will drain your battery more than it should..


    thus shoo i still recon yours is too dear.. to tell you the truth for this price you can get for like $50 more a stinger realocation kit.. i saw it last time.. was dear but it's the brand that's expensive.. and your's is far away to be to a Stinger level.. if i found the link i'll post it here ..
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  14. #14
    Guru Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz has a brilliant future Buzz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fever View Post
    what he means buzz is that in electric or electronic lay "to allow better electric flow of either a normal battery or a gel cell or whatever.. all the cables will have to be the same AWG.."

    that means that if you put a 0 AWG on the positive battery, just say for your amp, you will have to put a 0 AWG cable for the negative cause if you put for example a ) awg in + ve and a 4AWG in -ve then the electric flow will be unbalanced this it will drain your battery more than it should..


    thus shoo i still recon yours is too dear.. to tell you the truth for this price you can get for like $50 more a stinger realocation kit.. i saw it last time.. was dear but it's the brand that's expensive.. and your's is far away to be to a Stinger level.. if i found the link i'll post it here ..
    ahh.. sounds like minee then it's got the same cable
    Green is not a colour it's a state of mind!!

    ALL YOUR GREEN M&M'S BELONG TO ME
    ShReXa in the making CLICK HERE

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